Kashmir Odyssey

My parents have always been safe players in choosing places which are frequented by tourist for any vacation. So it came as a shock to me when my demand to go to Kashmir was Okayed at the first go. Did I have a personal genie I knew nothing about? When I demanded, never in my remotest dream did I think that my parents would agree. I was just shooting darts blindly in the air and thankfully I got a bulls-eye!

One of our neighbors in Ahmedabad had long back shifted base to Jammu and had a guest house in Srinagar. So with their help, we decided to take this trip to the most dangerous places of the world. One of my cousin brothers was staying with us and was overzealous with his excitement when he was included in our trip. So in total, 5 of us took a flight to heaven from our beloved Gujjuland, with stars in our eyes and a nagging fear at our subconscious level, as we were entering terrorist infested territory.  

A lot has been written about the beauty of Kashmir, but I wanted to see it with my own eyes. As per my parents, I had already visited Kashmir earlier, as it happens to be my first ever holiday destination. But they fail to add that they took me there when I was 6 months old! So even though I had seen Kashmir, I had no idea of what it looked like.

We reached Delhi from Ahmedabad very early in the morning and changed out flight to Srinagar. Many times earlier I had sat in the airport lounge of Delhi, longingly watching the tourist board the flight to Srinagar, but that day, with a sense of arrogance I boarded the flight, as those longings were seeing the light of the day.

The flight to Srinagar – the capital city of Jammu & Kashmir, is like no other in the world, with the exception of flight to Leh, for mere mortal like us. Never have I seen so much of activity inside the aircraft! I have taken many flights all over the world and have been used to formal looking faces of passengers, full of self-importance, talking and acting, as if they belong to the higher echelons of the British royalty! But the Srinagar bound aircraft was buzzing with ohhs and ahhs by passengers, looking at the scenery unfolding beneath us. Excited children and their parents were jumping with joy, running down the aisle, lest they miss out on some view. Lush green endless meadows surrounded by coniferous tree, with distant snow covered mountains promised us an eventful journey, which was to follow soon.

We landed at the Sheikh Ul Alam airport, to be greeted by the army on the runway itself. Watching them there made us uneasy and we started questioning our decision to come. We were escorted to the arrival lounge by the army, and given my film influenced head I could not help but see similarity between us and the convicts in the movie Con-Air. As we entered, the lounge that awaited us looked like it hasn’t be renovated since 1970s, even though it was in impeccable condition. I somehow felt that I had stepped into the sets of the movie Karma, with wood paneling everywhere.

Outside we were greeted by our Taxi driver, Abid, who was arranged by our neighbors, who shifted to Jammu. First look at him, and I and my sister were floored! How could a driver be so good-looking? And with his flawless Urdu, we became all starry eyed. Immediately after we started from the airport, huge palatial bungalows with towering walls welcomed us. It was completely in contrast to my earlier impression about the city. I expected to see barracks with bearded terrorist in it armed with ammo, crouching like a tiger, ready to attack us any moment! This is what my impaired mind thought of! But all my expectation was not wrong. Instead of the terrorists, the army personnel dotted the whole city. It seemed as if we had entered a criminal site, only possessing free access. As we entered the bowels of the city, we witnessed a different world altogether. Surprisingly, hordes of tourist were out shopping and roaming about the city freely. I was amazed to look at it, given the risk aversive nature of the Indians.

The boulevard next to the Dal Lake is the heart of the city. As soon as we entered the boulevard, we were awestruck by the beauty of the whole setting! It is so pleasing to the eye that one tends to forget that we are in the middle of a very sensitive area. A sharp turn from the main road brings us to the Dal Lake. Immediately out of now where we were surrounded by water, with numerous Houseboats perching on it with a sprinkling of quaint Shikaras moving lazily on the ethereal waters of the mist covered Dal Lake. With the absence of the sun coupled with a deliciously chilled weather, the whole setting looked very eerie to my eye. But it was mysteriously very beautiful.

Our 3 bedroom guest house was right next to the Dal Lake, inside a colony. Made in a Kashmiri style, it looked as if the house had seen better days. Even though it looked dilapidated, it was a very comfortable and a cozy little house. The caretaker of the house was a Bihari, so immediate comfort set-in, as we were from his neighboring state, U. P.

We could not contain ourselves within the bounds of the house so immediately after moving in we left for a stroll on the Dal Lake Boulevard. Every Kashmiri man or women looked like models. My sister, brother and I were staring at man and woman as if we had come from a different planet. But we could not help ourselves, because every person was so beautiful. We walked for almost 2 hours non-stop, and none of us felt any fatigue what-so-ever! We also sat for an hour on the side wall and munched onto the Jhal-mudi bought from a vendor. Surprisingly the street sellers we encountered on our stroll all hailed from Bihar. From Bihar to harsh Kashmir! I was bewildered but then thought, search of money can take people to any place in the world.

By the time we came back to the guest house, it had started raining. So a cup of tea felt like manna. At night, we had our dinner next door to our guest house, at a Tibetan café. From outside it looked very shady to us so we were hesitant to enter, but inside a beautiful garden welcomed us, with canopies atop the tables. We sat under a canopy, with rain falling all around us and had one of the most delicious meals of our life. Steaming hot food, in a rain infused chilled weather, under a canopy felt heavenly.

Next day, early morning, we were greeted by another young man, straight out of Mills and Boons Novels; talk, dark and handsome. His name was Wasim and he was to accompany us on our trip all over Kashmir. My sister and I were over the moon hearing this news but our bubble burst when we came to know that he was just 19 years old, much younger than any of us! He suggested that we look around places near Srinagar first and at last see the capital city itself. So the next morning we headed out to Gulmarg, a popular tourist destination. Fearing the onslaught of tourists, we made a headway towards Gulmarg at 6 a.m. itself. As we ascended towards the Gulmarg Mountain, I opened my sleepy eyes to picturesque scenery. Traversing through the serpentine mountain roads, we were the first to reach Gulmarg, even before the security guards. We encountered in front of us a humungous 18 holes Golf Course, which happens to be the highest in the world. It also contained within its radius, a Shiva temple, filmed in the song “Jai Jai Shiv Shankar” from the movie “Aap ki Kasam”. Soon the tourist cars started trickling in and the whole place became abuzz with activity. We ate our breakfast at a very English Looking Café and proceeded towards the Ropeway which would have taken us to the world renowned ski slopes. As we all were patiently waiting for the Ticket window to open, 14 - 15 bearded men, dressed in black leather jacket started the “Naray-baazi” in some alien language. Witnessing it, we got quite scared but it kept us enthralled. Too many people gathered around us so we thought of moving away from that place, lest some fight broke out. We gave up on the idea of going by the Gondola altogether and hired horses to go to the top. Thankfully we took that decision. The journey to the top that ensued shook our core! We traversed through huge snow covered mountains, green meadows dotted with sheep, small flowing streams running with us, snow patches on the pebbled path, tall standing conifer tree and with no road whatsoever. It all gave me a glimpse of what Emperor Akbar would have seen through his eyes because there was absolutely no civilization. It was frozen in time. We were the only ones all alone crossing the mountains like the gypsies. After about an hour of the Horse ride, we reached Khillanmarg.                        

Khillanmarg was a gorgeous in every way possible! I have travelled all around the world, seen the best of the countries, but this sight was unparallel! We looked at the Great Himalayan Range engulfing us from all sides; the view of the snow peaks and the limpid waters of the Wular Lake is a breathtaking one, unfolding view upon view of Himalayan splendor. The temperatures would have been on the negative side of scale, but who cared? It was heavenly. Beyond Khillanmarg was the Alpather Peak, leading to the Alpather Lake. This was also the end point of the Gondola ride. The weather here had started deteriorating, and we were soon covered by a thick blanket of dense fog leading to further drop in temperature. We cut short our journey beyond watching the weather and took back a Gondola ride to the car park. We were the first ones to reach back! Later we heard stories that we were lucky to have come back because people got stuck in the rain and snow for hours!

It was evening by the time we came back to Srinagar. We bought maggi and soup packets on the way back and cooked our dinner at the guesthouse itself. We didn’t want to eat the regular nutritious food. We were craving for Junk!

Whole Kashmir looks very rustic and belonging to the 70s era. It is so because of the lack of construction and development. Article 370 of the Indian Constitution of India states that a Non-Kashmiri cannot own immovable property in Kashmir and so the developmental activities in the state are almost stagnant!    Pahalgam, our next destination also looked like that it belonged to the bygone era.  After Srinagar, it is the most sought after destination amongst tourist. It was nothing in front of Gulmarg, even though all spots were blessed by nature in abundance. Due to this comparison it failed to generate any excitement in us. We went to a few tourist spots on Horseback but it was not the same. The only high point in Pahalgam was the river Sheshnag and River Aru, bordering the whole city. I wanted to eat Wazwan cuisine since the day we landed in Kashmir, and the quest ended in Pahalgam. But unfortunately I got nothing to savour being a vegeratian and only satiated myself watching my father and brother gorge on Yakhini and Gustaba. My quest continued further.

Next day we headed towards Sonmarg, the hill-station of Jammu & Kashmir state and also the starting point of the Amarnath Yatra. Yet again we climbed up the horseback to reach the Thajiwas glacier. I had always been jealous of mountain Sheppard as they get to see virgin places, unknown to people like us. But that day I could envisage a glimpse of what Sheppard see. Cerulean Blue sky as the backdrop, White snow covered mountains as the periphery, Silver Birch, Fir and Pine trees as spectators, lush green meadows as the stage carpet, and I performed my part on the world stage to the hilt. My soul was shaken seeing the beauty of the place. Had somebody killed me there, I would have only uttered blessing for him. The whole place had such a calming effect on me that felt I have reached the Self Actualization stage of my life.

The saying, “It is better to travel, then to arrive”, holds a lot of meaning with regards to Sonmarg. The Thajiwas Glacier was nothing great. People in the rented overcoats were just lolling around on the snow. Few excited Honeymooners resorted to throwing snow balls on each other and some were content hitching a ride on the snow sleigh till the top and gliding down from there. We did all these imbecile things and enjoyed every bit. But the actual fun is in the journey on the horse back till the glacier.

The countryside of Kashmir is sheer poetry in motion. Never have I seen purple fields in my life; purple colour pertaining to the Saffron Flower, which was in full bloom at that time of the year. The roads were surprisingly good and fir trees stood on both the sides of roads to welcome us. Water stream played hide and seek, popping out of nowhere and immediately disappearing. Snow White Mountains stood like bodyguard throughout our journey into Kashmir, never letting us away from their sight. Wooden houses with low roofs perched on wooden poles were a constant sight, with beautiful people living in it. Red cheeked, tall and healthy men, women and kids in woolen overalls strutted here and there going about their daily work. It all had a very rustic appeal and in a way I am thankful that Kashmir was still miles away from the clutches of modernization.   

On our way back from Sonmarg, we stopped at a Dry Fruit seller’s store, somewhere in the countryside. The store owner also treated us to a cup of qahwa. It was my very first introduction to this favorite drink of the Kashmiris and I immediately fell in love with it. This golden coloured hot drink was very soothing to our rigid muscles pertaining to the cold.

The next day we went around the city of Srinagar. Our first stop was the Shankaracharya Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is located at one of the highest points in Srinagar and gives a panoramic view of the whole valley. The 40 minutes climb is worth the pain. Some part of the song “Jai Jai Shiv Shankar” was also shot here.

Thereafter we saw the famous Mughal Gardens. Built during the Mughal period, these gardens are heavenly. They transport you to a different world altogether. We saw three Gardens viz., Shalimar, Nishat and Chashmashahi. Beautiful trees, shrubs, Flowers, Creepers and every flora and fauna imaginable can be found in these gardens. All gardens had one thing in common, which was a flowing stream around which the terrace gardens were made. Lying down on the manicured grass, I could visualize Akbar himself roaming about in these gardens and could envisage what luxurious lifestyle the Mughal Kings had and it also made me marvel at their sense of beauty. Amongst all, my favorite was the Nishat Garden from where Dal Lake was just across the road. On our way back we also saw the Pari Mahal, which is an ancient monument and stands proudly revealing through its bricks, walls and surroundings the rich story of the past. It was the royal observatory for Mughals and smallest of the Gardens.

After the rounds of the Gardens, we came to the Dal Lake for a ride in the Shikara boat. It was dusk and sun was bidding goodbye for the night. We got into the narrow boat and made our way towards the Chinar Garden located on the Island within the Dal Lake. The cold was bone chilling at that point but the experience was exhilarating. Boating in the moonlight gives a peculiar kind of high which cannot be expressed in words. We drifted in silent waters under the grace of the moon and had the most exotic feeling ever. We also made our way into the floating market of the Dal lake which was another experience altogether. On way we also passed various Houseboats and watched people relaxing on the Sun loungers having a good time. The whole ride was very relaxing. Later that night we visited the market and bought some handicrafts. Surprisingly Srinagar possessed a very posh market with huge showrooms which reminded that I was in the Capital City of a state.                        

Srinagar possesses many café and restaurants which looked were hip and happening. It also has many Luxury Hotels and we went to one of them called the Broadway to satiate my longing for Wazwan food. Even though, Wazwan is the cuisine of Kashmir, it was nowhere to be found. We had to go to a 5 star hotel to sample it. Very few vegetarian dishes made it to their menu and I had to relinquish my search and accepted my defeat by Non-vegetarian food. My father and brother had a hay-day and I satiated myself with a measly paneer dish called Ruwangan Chaman.

Our stint in Srinagar ended with it and the next day we proceeded towards Kupwara, which is very close to the LOC. Enroute we visited the Hazratbal Mosque, which one of the holiest shrines for Muslims in Kashmir. This white marble edifice has an imposing dome surrounded by a beautiful garden with rounded trees with a flat top.

We had decided to go to Kupwara only on the insistence of my father’s cousin who was posted there in Army. Kupwara happens to be an extremely sensitive area with terrorists largely occupying it. The road to Kupwara passes from Sopore which is a well known area with regards to terrorist activities. The city is famous for its Apple and is 5 kms away from the famous Wular Lake, which is the largest fresh water lake in Asia. I had no idea about Sopore but as soon as my father told me about it, I started seeing each person as a terrorist and my senses became hyperactive and I didn’t breathe till we reached Kupwara. From Kupwara Town, we were escorted by a BSF Jeep to the Army settlement. The whole drive from Srinagar to Kupwara was laden with beauty and it grew manifolds within the Army Cantonment where we stayed. What beauty awaited us! Within the bounds of the Cantonment, quaint little huts were perch on the hill slopes, surrounded by flower laden shrubs. It looked straight out of a Fairy tale. Roses grew everywhere like weed. Offices and houses were splattered here and there covered by creepers. We met our Uncle, whose family had also come for a visit. In true Army style we ate our Lunch and went for a boat ride in the cantonment next to ours. It was more of an Army boat in a small pond, but the whole setting was beautiful. The whole pond was surrounded by chinar trees and we were the lone ones drifting on the water.

After the evening tea, we tried our hand at shooting and aiming from a real AK-47. Practicing range of the cantonment was another breathtaking setting. We were surrounded by dense trees all around with a huge clearing in the middle. The aim was a metal human figure placed at a distance of 500 mts. The whole valley erupted with each gunshot, and the ominous sound echoed everywhere. My only experience with a gun was aiming at the balloons with an artificial gun in a funfair. But this was a completely different ball game. I was hesitant in using an AK-47 but gave in as I didn’t want to miss out the experience. I took the first aim prostrated on the ground and BANG, it hit the face of the human figure right on the cheek! The other two shots were futile attempts with no result but only a lot of noise! I was running high with excitement and my bubble burst when I was given the news that 2 terrorist were shot dead just outside our cantonment that very moment. I was shaken out of my wits and thanked my stars that none of us was outside the bound of the cantonment walls.

The Cantonment was resplendent with a beautiful tennis court and we tried our hand at it and also in the indoor Badminton court. After a full on Army Style dinner that night, we laid down to sleep and entered the dream world hearing the distant gunshots, knowing that someone was killed again somewhere nearby.    

Next morning, we started back from Kupwara towards Jammu. On way with a lot of insistence of our driver, Wasim, we visited his home on the outskirts of Srinagar. We were hesitant in going to an unknown place and to an unknown person’s house lest we are held captives given the reputation of Kashmir, but due to our trust on Wasim, we went ahead. His house was located in a colony with narrow roads and huge boundary walls of houses rendering it impossible to see what was within. We stopped in front of one such house which was Wasim’s. As soon as the gate was opened, we gasped. It was not a house but a palatial Bungalow with a huge garden. We were greeted by Wasim’s family who invited us into the house where we sat on the Spic and Span Carpet, true to the Kashmiri style. We were treated to a cuppa of delicious Qahwa and much to my dismay my father declined an invitation to a wazwan Lunch. Later we came to know that Wasim was not a mere driver, but an Owner of Taxi Company! He drove just for the love of driving.

We ate our Lunch at Patnitop, which was a scenic hill station, with a few points here and there. Further on we passed through one of the longest tunnels in India – The Jawahar Tunnel to enter Jammu Region. We stopped at Kalka for the night and decided to climb the Mount Vaishnodevi the next day. Next morning  we took horses for our climb as none wanted to walk 14 kms. On way people were huffing and puffing but climbed their way till the top. So many pilgrims come to Vaishnodevi each day and it is commendable the way the crowd is managed there. I do not like crowds and Vaishnodevi was one such place where people were overflowing. This only generated negativity about the whole place in my mind because I hate crowds. We stood in the long queue for the darshan and surprisingly our turn came very soon due to the bribe given to pundits there. Inside the temple the pundits were slapping the heads of the pilgrims in the name of blessings. I also got a bang on my head and if looks could kill, I would have mutilated that pundit there and then but this only increased my negativity about the whole place. People say they feel all sorts of magical pull towards the goddess providing them with strength but I felt nothing of this sort. I was truly revolted by the whole place and the horse ride back to Kalpa increased my loathing! Vaishnodevi failed to even generate a miniscule amount of devotion in me and thankfully our spell in Vaishnodevi got over soon.

We halted at Jammu on our way to Delhi to meet our neighbours who arranged the whole trip. Jammu looked like a nice peacefully city with huge showroom and multiplexes. There was no traffic on the roads and the whole city was spic and span. It resembled Chandigarh quite a lot.

On reaching Delhi, we were welcomed by scorching heat. This was hell! But we had no qualms as we had just visited heaven and came back. Our Kashmir trip was packed full of beauty. It was the best place that I have visited in my life. I have seen Switzerland too, but it is too well kept for my liking. The manicured meadows, with grazing jersey cows looks very appealing to the eyes but Kashmir has a rustic attractiveness about it that has been untouched by humans. It is endowed by beauty in every aspect. But like a rose is surrounded by thorns, Kashmir also has fair number of thorns in the form of terrorism. It’s a pity to see the most beautiful place on earth going to the dogs! I had seen the most common tourist places in Kashmir but there will be plenty more hidden secrets which I hope someday will be accessible by people like us after flushing out the terrorist groups. But for the time being I supremely content with what I had seen in Kashmir. It is truly Heaven on Earth and I completely agree with Amir Khusro in his opinion about Kashmir;

Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast,
Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast.

(If there is a paradise on earth,
It is this, it is this, it is this)